Gat: From Masculine Dignity to a Global Icon
From the Netflix animation, K-Pop: Demon Hunters
Gat Reborn as One of the 'Hippest' Icons of the 21st Century
The 'Gat,' Korea's traditional hat, was a vital symbol during the Joseon Dynasty, representing a man's dignity, status, and the aesthetics of the era. However, as the Joseon period came to an end, the Gat seemed destined to become a mere museum artifact.
Yet, in the 21st century, this unique and beautiful hat has made a brilliant comeback fueled by the wave of K-content. The beginning of this revival was the Netflix original series 'Kingdom.' In this unique zombie thriller set in the Joseon Dynasty, the Gats worn by the characters, including the protagonist Lee Chang, captured the attention of viewers worldwide. The image of the Gat maintaining its elegance even during dynamic action scenes gave birth to the nickname 'K-hat,' and led to a phenomenon where actual Gats were sold on Amazon. People were more fascinated by the beauty of the Gat than the horror of the zombies.
From the Netflix series, Kingdom
Recently, this revival reached its peak through the animated film 'K-Pop: Demon Hunters.' The idol group 'Saja Boys' in the film, inspired by the Grim Reaper (Jeoseung-saja), showcases a style that reinterprets the traditional Gat with a modern sensibility. Seeing them perform powerful choreography while wearing Gats demonstrated that this hat is no longer a relic of the past, but can be a 'hip' and cool cultural icon of today. Thus, the Gat has evolved from a traditional hat symbolizing a scholar's dignity to an icon of K-style that fascinates the world.
(Source: https://bloggm.tistory.com/397)
Therefore, I would like to introduce the Korean Gat in more detail. Lee Moon Won Clinic became interested in the Gat due to its functional aspects. Despite being a hat, it offers excellent ventilation, and its materials are cool and resistant to bacterial growth, making it very useful for male scalp and hair care.
Since many international visitors have recently shown interest in the Korean Gat, I believe it would be beneficial to share its historical origins, materials, and related incidents based on historical research, moving beyond just its functional benefits.
The Completion of a Man, the Mark of an Adult: Gat
In historical dramas set in the Joseon Dynasty, we often see noblemen wearing elegant black hats. The Gat was more than just a sunshade; it was a critical symbol representing the dignity and status of a Joseon scholar (Seonbi) and the style of the times.
(Source: https://love.seoul.go.kr/articles/7509)
While the history of the Gat dates back much further, the form we are familiar with was perfected during the Joseon Dynasty. It began with practical roots like the 'Paeraengi' (straw hat) but gradually gained deep social significance. Men in Joseon could only wear a Gat after completing the Gwanrye (冠禮), a coming-of-age ceremony. Thus, wearing a Gat was a ritual signifying recognition as an adult responsible for a household and a member of society.
The Gat was not so much a symbol of worldly success as it was a basic virtue required for any scholar dedicated to learning and self-discipline. Scholars considered 'Uigwanjeongje'—tidying one's clothes and hat—the foundation of governing mind and body, and the Gat was the ultimate completion of that effort.
A Work of Art Crafted from Bamboo and Horsehair
Creating a single high-quality Gat required a highly collaborative process involving several artisans over more than half a year. The National Intangible Cultural Heritage 'Gat-il' is a joint effort of three types of masters:
[Image showing the intricate weaving of a Gat using bamboo and horsehair]- Chongmojang (摠帽子匠): Weaves the 'Chongmoja,' the part that fits the head, using horsehair. This reflects practical wisdom, providing excellent ventilation to prevent heat from building up on the head.
- Yangtaejang (凉太匠): Weaves the 'Yangtae,' the wide brim, using Juksa (bamboo silk) split thinner than human hair. It effectively blocks strong sunlight while providing an elegant field of vision.
- Ipjajang (笠子匠): Assembles the Chongmoja and Yangtae, covers them with silk, and applies lacquer multiple times to complete the shape. Through this process, the Gat finally gains its sturdy form and deep, elegant black luster.
(Source: https://ncms.nculture.org/market/story/3476#none)
(Source: Dong-A Ilbo https://www.donga.com/news/Culture/article/all/20201223/104604709/1)
As such, the Gat was not just a hat, but a work of art born from natural materials combined with the sweat and skill of artisans.
A Mirror Reflecting the Desires of the Era: Gat as a Luxury Item
Toward the late Joseon Dynasty, the Gat began to deviate from its original meaning and transformed into a luxury item to flaunt wealth and power. In particular, the Yangtae (brim) became increasingly wider, reflecting the desires of the era. During the reign of King Sunjo, massive Gats with brim diameters of 70-80cm became trendy, reportedly large enough to cover one's entire body when sitting. It is said that fights often broke out in narrow alleys when Gats bumped into each other.
Furthermore, wealth was displayed through the Gat-끈 (Gat strings), which were decorated with expensive gemstones like jade, amber, coral, and crystal. One could guess a person's status and wealth simply by looking at the material and length of the Gat string.
This excessive luxury and formalism eventually became targets for reform during the regency of Heungseon Daewongun, who sought to restore social discipline by encouraging practical, narrow-brimmed Gats.
