Korean Hair Care Culture: An Ethical and Philosophical Act Beyond Simple Beauty
Exploring Traditional Korean Hair Culture
Hair. To some, it is merely a part of the body, but here on the Korean Peninsula, it was a person's philosophy, identity, and a vessel that held the universe. At the beginning of everything was a single sentence: "Sinchebalbu Sujibumo Bulgamhwesang Hyojisiya (身體髮膚 受之父母 不敢毁傷 孝之始也)." "The body, hair, and skin are sacred heritages received from one's parents, so not daring to damage them is the beginning of filial piety." This deep belief led to a culture where both men and women grew long hair upon reaching adulthood, which inevitably sparked the development of sophisticated techniques, tools, and styles for managing long hair. Today, we seek to explore the deep and ancient story contained within a single strand of hair.
Part 1: The Ritual of Adornment - Time for Combing the Soul
The journey to maintain long hair began with finding answers in nature. For them, hair care was more than just a beauty act; it was a ritual to purify the body and mind.
Purification with the Wisdom of Nature
On Dano, the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, women washed their hair in 'Changpowmul,' water boiled with iris roots. This clear and fragrant water was not only for cleanliness but also carried a shamanistic meaning of warding off evil spirits and misfortune. At the same time, the rich nutrients of the iris were a product of scientific wisdom to prevent hair loss and add gloss to the hair.
In daily life, the most common ingredients became the most precious medicines: namely, rice water. The milky water left over from washing rice is rich in vitamins, amino acids, and minerals, which nourished the scalp and made the hair as soft as silk. The wisdom of utilizing byproducts of food preparation for beauty reflects a life where nature and daily routine were one. Furthermore, mung bean powder, used to remove sebum and soothe the skin, is passed down as a secret used by the famous Gisaeng, Hwang Jini.
Adding Gloss and Protecting the Soul
The secret to glossy hair lay in a single drop of oil. The most beloved was camellia oil, which acted like a natural essence, coating the hair with a protective layer to maintain moisture and shine while protecting it from UV rays. Meanwhile, castor oil was valued as a medicinal oil to thicken hair and treat scalp conditions like dandruff. These oils were sublimated into art in the hands of 'Sumo,' professional stylists who helped brides prepare for their weddings. Through their touch, a bride's hair could meet its most brilliant moment.
The Aesthetics of Combing to Rule the Mind
On the dressing table of a Joseon woman, there sat no simple comb. It was a highly specialized set of 11 tools. Combing was not just about untangling hair; it was a process of discipline to set one's mind right.
The process began with a wide-toothed comb called **Eollebit**. Handling tangled hair too hastily inevitably leads to breakage. The Eollebit was the first step to gently soothe and loosen the tangles of long hair. This process also had a massaging effect, gently stimulating the scalp to improve blood circulation.
Once the path was cleared by the Eollebit, the **Chambit**, meaning 'true comb,' made its appearance. Its dense teeth, made of bamboo split thinner than hair, combed through the hair meticulously without allowing a single strand to be out of place. It also served a hygienic role by evenly spreading hair oil and removing invisible dust or lice.
Combs were further specialized according to their use:
- Myeonbit: A small comb used to neatly arrange side hair.
- Sangtubit: A small Eollebit for men to tidy their hair when tying a topknot.
- Eumyangso: A practical comb with coarse teeth on one side and fine teeth on the other.
- Saljjeokmiri: A tool used to tidy fine baby hairs when wearing a Manggeon (headband).
- Bitchigae: A tool used for cleaning combs or decorating hair.
These sophisticated tools were born from the hands of 'Moksojang' (wooden comb masters) and 'Juksojang' (bamboo comb masters). They carefully selected dense and hard woods such as jujube, pine, and citron wood. Especially prized were **Byeokjomok** combs, made from jujube wood struck by lightning. Believed to contain the powerful Yang energy of the heavens, it was thought that combing with this would repel evil spirits and bring good luck.
Combs were also a medium for expressing feelings. Gifting a carefully crafted comb to a woman one loved was a proposal meaning, "I want to comb my hair with you for the rest of my life." If the woman accepted the comb, she accepted the proposal; if she returned it silently, it was a sign of rejection. In this way, a single comb held delicate and romantic customs that could change a person's life.
Part 2: Expression of Identity - A World Built Atop the Head
If the art of grooming hair was a discipline for the inner self, how that hair was displayed was a social contract and an expression of power. Hairstyles and their ornaments were the most powerful visual languages for revealing invisible rank and status.
The Dignity of a Scholar: Gat
The elegant black hat (Heungnip) that we think of today as 'Gat' actually had a modest beginning. Originating from the 'Paeraengi,' a practical hat for blocking sun and rain, the Gat developed into the most important headgear symbolizing the dignity and status of scholars during the Joseon Dynasty. Scholars considered 'Uigwanjeongje'—tidying one's clothes and hat—as the basis of mental and physical discipline, and the Gat was the finishing touch.
Contrary to its appearance, the Gat was a surprisingly practical hat. The wide brim called 'Yangtae,' woven from 'Juksa' (bamboo split thinner than a hair), effectively blocked strong sunlight, while the 'Chongmoja,' the head portion woven from horsehair, provided excellent ventilation to prevent heat from building up on the scalp.
Making a single Gat required a highly collaborative process taking over half a year. The National Intangible Cultural Heritage 'Gat-il' involves three types of masters working together: the **Chongmojang** who makes the head portion, the **Yangtaejang** who weaves the brim, and the **Ipjajang** who assembles the two parts and finishes them with silk and lacquer. In their hands, bamboo and horsehair were reborn as works of art containing the majesty of a scholar.
The appearance of the Gat changed according to the trends of the times. Toward the late Joseon Dynasty, the Yangtae brim became increasingly wider, reflecting the desires of the era. Eventually, during the reign of King Sunjo, massive Gats with brim diameters of 70-80cm became popular, large enough to cover the entire body when sitting. This excessive luxury became a target of reform for Heungseon Daewongun, who sought to restore discipline by encouraging practical, narrow-brimmed Gats. Sometimes, wealth and power were flaunted through ornate Gat strings made of gemstones like jade, amber, and coral.
With the end of the dynasty, the Gat seemed destined to become a museum artifact. However, in the 21st century, this unique hat was brilliantly revived through the Netflix drama 'Kingdom.' Viewers worldwide were more fascinated by the beauty of the Gat than by the zombies, leading to a phenomenon of Gats being sold on Amazon. Recently, in the animation 'K-Pop: Demon Hunters,' the idol group 'Saja Boys' performed a powerful dance wearing Gats, rebranding it as today's 'hippest' cultural icon.
The Pinnacle of Feminine Beauty and Power: Gache
If men expressed their status through the Gat, women had the 'Gache.' Originally a wig to supplement thinning hair, the Gache transformed into the most powerful symbol of wealth and power during the mid-to-late Joseon period. The size and weight of the Gache represented the wealth of the household, and an invisible war broke out among women over who could wear a larger and heavier Gache. Its price soared to be more expensive than the combined assets of ten middle-class households, becoming an essential item in a bride's trousseau.
The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty vividly record the harms caused by Gache. By the era of King Seongjong, its height reached one Ja (about 30cm), and there was even a tragic incident where a young bride died from a broken neck while performing a deep bow to her father-in-law due to the 3-4kg weight of the Gache.
Eventually, the royal court intervened. Kings Yeongjo and Jeongjo issued Gache bans several times. King Jeongjo, in particular, issued the ban in both Classical Chinese and Hangul so that all subjects could understand, attempting to correct the trend of luxury. However, the desire for beauty and status was stronger than royal decrees. The Gache trend finally subsided in the 19th century under the influence of Silhak (Practical Learning) philosophy, and the elegant 'Jjokmeori' style, which we associate with Hanbok today, took its place. The images of women with voluminous Gache in the genre paintings of Shin Yun-bok and Kim Hong-do remain as vivid evidence of the desires and trends of an era.
Conclusion: A Universe Contained in a Single Strand of Hair
Korean traditional hair culture was an epic saga where philosophy, science, and art were interwoven. The reverence for 'the body as a parent's heritage' gave birth to natural wisdom like Changpo and camellia oil, and created sophisticated tools like the Eollebit and Chambit. Furthermore, it produced powerful social languages like the Sangtu, Gat, Gache, and Jjokmeori. Through a single strand of hair, people remembered their roots, governed their bodies and minds, and told the story of their place in society. Atop their heads sat not merely hair, but the philosophy, beauty, and pride of the era they lived in.